Not all dance-inspired collections fall into the balletcore category. Case in point: Ganni’s resort collection, which builds on Ditte Reffstrup’s memories of going to dance camp as a child and her sister’s career as a ballerina. These recollections were the designer’s way into an exploration of femininity; and its most obvious expression was the use of bows. But these weren’t just floppy bands of ribbon that recalled childhood; they had functional uses. Long ties at the front of a suit jacket work as a closure; others at the back allow the wearer to have some control over the fit. There are a few instances when the bow theme gets a bit Bahnsen-ish; but that’s certainly not the case when it comes to a mushroom-colored crushed velvet dress with an asymmetrically drawstring-pull festooned with line of butterfly-like bows that are coquettish rather than cute.

Reffstrup said her fall collection had a more grown-up mood, and that has carried over to resort as well in the form of some strong tailored pieces, like a midi skirt suit with a must-have double-breasted jacket. Pinstripe is used for a wear-to-work pantsuit as well as a miniskirt paired with an oversized bomber.

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