To continue the celebrations of the 15th anniversary of his eponymous brand, Benito Santos paid homage to the Mexican charrería, or rodeo. “I’ve reached a point in my career where I’m on a journey inward, toward my roots and the folklore I grew up with,” he said.

The designer was generous, not only with the more than 100 pieces that made up Alteñita, a collection inspired by the Alteñitas Escaramuzas of Guadalajara–his hometown–but also with the attention he paid to detail in the tailoring and embroidery of the garments.

The Lienzo Zermeño in the city of Guadalajara was a slightly unusual venue, although perfect for integrating with the context of the celebration. To the accompaniments of tequila and mariachi, a black charro suit with a fringed poncho and embroidered sequins opened the show. It was followed by suits with bow ties at the neck, voluminous sleeve silhouettes, feather-trimmed details, and waist-hugging accents. This last detail is a hallmark of Santos’s DNA.

Textures were mixed. He used denim, tulle, and satin for rose-embellished suits, whose motifs he created by himself—Gualalajara is the City of Roses. “Everything starts with the illustration. It’s one of my great hobbies and the beginning of my process. From there, we develop the textile design and the selection of fabrics, and the entire collection goes into production in my workshop,” said the designer.

Transparencies and the opera gloves added a touch of sensuality and modernity to garments that winked at the most traditional outfits of the Mexican wardrobe. Accessories were similarly traditional and came in the form of chiselled leather cummerbunds and earrings and necklaces inspired by charro buckles. The show ended with the music of the mariachi and the singer-songwriter Natalia Jiménez.

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